Under thirty-five years of Japanese rule, ended in August 1945, Jeju did not escape unscathed from conflict and occupation. Right across the island, physical remnants of the conflict that almost reached its shores remain.

On its western side is Gamma Oreum with clear, unobstructed views of the coastline and Halla-san. Built into its base are darkened, claustrophobic tunnels that sprawl away for kilometres underground. From this location Japanese forces would direct any defence against a foreign invasion armada.

However, an invasion never came and no defence was ever made.

Pre-dive jitters were setting in as this intrepid reporter stepped off the bus in Seogwipo, but one look at Ralf Deutsch, the owner/operator of Big Blue33, quickly quelled those fears. Ralf’s calming, open manner instils trust – we would be safe under the water with this man. Ralf has run Big Blue33 (so named because Jeju lies on the 33rd parallel) for the past seven seasons; deciding after his contract as German professor at Jeju National University finished, to stay here. So he opened the dive shop.

I first came to Korea in April of 2007 to stay with friends at their organic Mandarin orange farm near Seogwipo. At that time the trees were lush and green with leaves and held just a hint of the buds that were to become white flowers. I discovered that the Mandarin orange, often called a tangerine, is the favorite gift during the Lunar New Year in Korea to usher in prosperity and good fortune.

Winter weather on Jeju provides enough impetus to seek out warm and welcoming retreats. The day of our interview was one of those days. Known by a few foreign residents and locals alike, the Miru Namoo Gallery Café is a cosy space providing a mix of contemporary and traditional ambience and a place in which the founder, Kim Jo Sook, actually lived. Our welcome was one of genuine pleasure as Lee Kwan Hee smiled and guided us in.

Attending a Chinese acrobatic circus may not be the first thing that springs to mind when considering tourist activities on Jeju, but it is not to be missed. The brilliant Magic World show includes acrobatics, a stunt motorcycle ring, and even kangaroo boxing! Between excited bites of popcorn, I was thrilled by the colourful costumes, sensational music, and the incredible skill and choreography of these performers.