Yeongsil was the first trail I climbed. That is, the first trail I climbed on any mountain, ever. I’m from the Canadian prairies – we’re not big on mountains.

I picked Yeongsil because it came highly recommended over Eorimok, boasting valleys to shout into and a view of the city stretching to the ocean, while Eorimok was mostly hidden by forest.
At this point, I’m halfway through my first teaching contract, and I’ve climbed each of these shorter trails a few times. I’m here to officially cast my vote for the underdog.

I prefer Eorimok.

After much careful consideration, I’ve decided it’s the love of a good metaphor that won me over. To explain, I must firstly make a confession. For me to work the same job for an entire year has been almost beyond comprehension until now. My issue here is not with the actual job, it’s with the fact that, even if I want to, I…can’t….quit.

Starting out

And so begins a morning hike up Eorimok. The forest itself is beautiful, especially with leaves in varying stages of decomposition layering the pathway. I often forget the beauty, though, instead focusing on the steep, forever-ascending staircase and the way every muscle fiber in my body resists me.

There isn’t much talking in the forest, despite the large weekend crowds. Just communal labored breath. I pass a map, showing the tiny distance I’ve traveled in relation to effort exerted. When groups behind me pause to look, I can’t help smiling at the mixture of laughter and pitiful groaning between words I don’t understand. We’re in this together.

But then, just as my lungs feel about to burst, as I’m debating a long nap on a rock beside the stairs, it happens.

The forest is gone.

The final stages

It’s as if the phrase “out of the woods” was inspired by the Eorimok trail. On one Saturday morning, a large group of university students was waiting at this point for their stragglers. I was met with cheers, meant for the people walking behind me, of course, but I accepted them anyway. The hard part was over.

And now, I have passed the halfway point in my teaching contract. It’s been a long six months, but, even though I didn’t hear any cheers as I moved into the second half, I feel different. I feel like I’ve already accomplished something.

I’m halfway there. The second half of Eorimok is out in the fresh, mountain air – a gradual slope, more suitable for conversation and celebration. Yes, I have to watch my ankles on the rocky path, and yes, it’s still climbing a mountain, but soon I can see the top. It’s close. So close I can taste the chocolate bar in my backpack.

I vote for Eorimok because it brings two immense rushes of satisfaction, and for me, it breaks the lesson in commitment into two easier to handle pieces. Well, the first part is admittedly difficult. But hey, it’s over – and there’s a contract to complete.

The beaches of Jeju Island, South Korea
Story by Henry Gerlits | Lead photo: Jungmun Beach

Are you new to the island, looking forward to dodging the monsoon weather and heading to the beaches this summer? Not sure which beach to check out? Here’s some information that might help get you started.

1. Samyang Beach – Located to the immediate east of Jeju City, this beach is accessible by city bus and is famous for its black sand. The black sand is known for its dermatological properties, and “there are even trenches so that you can be buried in the sand – it’s great for your skin,” commented English instructor and Jeju resident Anj Schroeder. Anj added that Samyang is best visited in the peaceful early hours of the morning.

2. Hamdeok Beach – Koreans I’ve spoken to have referred to this beach as “exotic”. Though I’m not sure I agree, Hamdeok does offer a number of great activities at close proximity to Jeju City. There are actually two beaches at Hamdeok, the main beach and a smaller, more private side beach around the rocks to the east. Those same rocks are also a great snorkeling spot. There’s a Family Mart visible from the beach, and crossing the road will bring you to a small amusement park with the legendary “Viking” boat ride. Hamdeok tends to be a foreigner favorite on the weekends and a meeting place for rugby, frisbee, and other sports.

3. Gimnyeong Beach – Gimnyeong (pictured) is notable for its sailing. The Cheju National University adult program runs sailing classes on the weekends there, you can contact them at 751-2704-5.

Gimnyeong Beach | Credit: Marcus Kaulback

4. Sehwa, Hado, & Jongdal-ri Beaches – Located between Seongsan and Gimyeong, these beaches are surrounded by sandy plains and are close to the Haenyeo Museum. This area is ideal for those looking for a secluded, off-the-tourist-radar area with few amenities.

5. Sinyang Beach – This beach is a little south of Seongsan, and a great place to find a minbak and spend the night before climbing Seongsan at sunrise. It is also popular with windsurfers.

6. Pyoseon Beach – The only beach in Jeju’s southeast corner, Pyoseon is known for its long stretch of sandy beach – it takes quite a while to walk (or even run!) from the road to the waves, especially during low tide. The beach’s total size is 250,000 square meters. I’ve spotted flying fish playing in the shallows at Pyoseon. It’s also right around the corner from the Jeju Folk Village.

7. Jungmun Beach – “The” tourist beach of Jeju, Jungmun’s resort complex might deter a budget traveler, but this beach has more to offer than just high prices, and is another weekend foreigner favorite. Boasting the best waves on the island, Jungmun is a popular place for surfing and other water sports. You can even charter a yacht, and it comes complete with a buffet. The coastline toward the west (near the Hyatt) is a good place to avoid the crowds, and a great spot for a volleyball net. On the east side of the beach is a small haenyeo (women diver) restaurant which serves freshly caught seafood – and it’s where I tasted seng-nakchi (still wriggling octopus tentacles) for the first and last time. If you’re not in the mood for seafood, a stop at Gecko’s western-style bar and grille for a pint of draft Guinness and a hamburger is the perfect way to end the day.

8. Hwasun Beach – With a gorgeous view of the sunset behind Sanbangsan, Hwasun beach is an under-appreciated gem of the island. Though close to Jungmun, Hwasun has managed to avoid the encroachment of larger resorts, and a comfortable minbak a stone’s throw from the beach will run you between 20,000 and 25,000 won a night.

9. Hamo Beach – This tiny beach on the southwestern tip of Jeju has a good view of Marado, but “more rocks than sand”, according to a good Korean friend of mine whose hometown is Moseulpo.

10. Hyeopjae & Geumneung Beaches – With a stunning view of Biyang Island right off the coast, and right around the corner from Hallim Park, these beaches are a beautiful place to spend a Saturday or Sunday, though the area is a bit far from both Jeju City and Seogwipo. Those who’d rather spend the night might find it a great place to tent camp on the beach.

Hyeopjae Beach | Credit: Mango Salata

11. Gwakji Beach – Located between Iho and Hyeopjae beaches, Gwakji is a great place to watch the sunset and has unique salt-water bathhouses (for men and women) right on the beach.

12. Iho Beach – A short ride from Sin Jeju, this beach was hit hard by Nari last year, and has a reputation among Koreans as being “dirty”. Nevertheless, it’s a nice short refreshing break from the city, and close to the romantic spaghetti restaurants of Jeju’s “Coastal Road”.

13. Bonus – Oedolgae Rock - Though not a proper beach, this popular sightseeing location is also home to a small swimming hole, good snorkeling, and rock-jumping. The view from the cliffs along the path to the west of the Rock are also a must-see. It is located along the coast of Seogwipo City near the Cheonjiyeon Waterfall.

Talking to the man in charge

In charge of managing these sites is general manager Oh SeungIeek and, as he sweeps into the UNESCO bureau office in Sin Jeju, he cuts the air of a man who knows business. Speaking in low tones he begins to expertly field the questions we pose.

With the transitional phase from Jeju UNESCO task force to officially recognised organization completed in March, the offices main duties now involve managing the sites in terms of “protection and political issues” as well as promoting and involving more people. And more people have been arriving with a 5-6% increase in visitors since June 2007 and a 15% increase of traffic to the UNESCO endowed sites.

With an increase in visitor numbers, isn’t there a concern about degradation of the sites? Yes there is, “but [all three were] already open to the public so there is no difficulty in keeping pace with increased tourist numbers,” Oh says. Hallasan, however, has been earmarked for special attention: “In the case of Hallasan – we wonder if this number is relevant for protecting the natural reserve site. We are making an enquiry as to what number is the relevant number… [with] experts working for the universities.”

Too fragile for visitors?

Some portions of the natural world heritage sites are so fragile that they’re no open to the public – yet. The Geomun Oreum lava tube system is something that we won’t be seeing for some time. But, according to Oh, scientists are doing the research and when “the results of this research [are] published then they will decide whether to open them to the public…. because it’s really difficult to preserve the caves,” he says. “If there are a lot of tourists there is probably going to be some damage. How many could access, how long should the tourist route be… it’s [too] early to say ‘yes’ we’re opening it.” However, if the tantalizing photograph in the tourist map is anything to go by, then traversing the cave system’s underground lake by boat could be quite the experience.

Getting lost on the list

Even though Jeju has just been inscribed onto the UNESCO list, many have come and gone before. Is there a danger of it getting lost in among the 851 items? “Not really,” Oh explains. 660 are cultural, 166 are natural and 25 are mixed properties. Jeju falls under the 166 natural sites. Furthermore, they’re on the promotion offensive with a number of projects in the pipelines. Including one to foster ties with natural sites that were registered across the world in previous years. This summer closer ties with Hawaii (a sister province since 1986) are forming in a “sister-park” initiative.

Further information

Jeju is finding its feet with its newfound status and the hard work is certainly not over now that it’s made the list. For more information on the sites, including the other lava tubes in the Geomun Oreum lava tube system, visit: http://jejuwnh.jeju.go.kr/english.php.

- With thanks to KimNamjin, deputy director of the Jeju World Heritage Management Bureau.

Why scuba dive in Jeju? The East China Sea, which surrounds the island, offers a mix of both soft coral and seaweed like kelp as well as supporting diverse sealife, including cold and warm water varieties of fish and nudibraches (sea slugs). Apparently professional divers who have dived all over the world, come to Jeju and still see something new. Besides, accessing good dive sites is relatively easy. Many of the islets off the Seogwipo are accessible by water taxi and support rich coral life. The rock face plunges straight down to the ocean bottom so one can set up “camp” on the island and dive right off into the water.

Us beginners were just there for the try dive. After signing the usual waivers we were walked through the basic essentials of scuba diving and the scuba gear, including the all important plugging of the nose and blowing out to equalize the pressure in the ears. And then it was the trying on of wet suits, loading the necessary equipment into the back of the dive van and driving five minutes to the harbour. We dived off of Little Museum island, an impressive place to dive from, because the rock looks like Swiss cheese due to its volcanic origins. Each of us had our own guide who assembled our gear for us (a complicated looking task), and walked us through every step from putting on the weight belt to getting into the water. The initial shock of 18C water wasn’t so bad in a wet suit. We used a previously placed rope to guide us the nine metres down to the channel bottom, where our guide helped us start swimming and controlled the air in our PDF.

Scuba diving: words fail to express the total freedom and liberty experienced swimming under the water. The water parts like a liquid curtain in front of my outstretched hands and the gentle surge rocks my body in a tender embrace. All around me is an unexplored world filled with vibrant colours, varied textures and unique marine life. Schools of multicoloured fish swim by, varying from a pair of large zebra striped angelfish, to a brilliant peacock blue minnow and a large puffer fish hiding in the kelp. Some of the more curious of fish come right up to my face and peer into my mask, trying to decide what this large mass could be. Even the stationary marine life is eye candy; the soft kelp covers the rock face in a forest of intense oranges, blues and purples. The ten minutes under the water was just not enough time to see all there was to see. And this was with the water clarity being less than desirable due to wave action stirring up silt on the previous day.

After the dive, the first words out of my mouth were “I want to go back down!” Ralf of course was plied with questions about getting certified. He offers three levels of NAUNI certification at his shop. The first is an entry level course that takes about 5 days to complete. It consists of classroom instruction (tested with a written exam), skills practice on the beach and 5 open water dives to the depth of 18 metres. Although there are other Scuba certification programs out there, such as PADI , they are pretty similar in course content. The difference comes in the quality of instruction. Apparently there are some “dive factories” in Southeast Asia where divers are churned out with little practice. He offered this word of advice, “Meet the instructor, before signing up for a diving course.”

Scuba diving – it can be done year round here on Jeju, with the peak diving season being from May to October. For more information on Big Blue33, check out his website at http://www.bigblue33.co.kr/ There are numerous other dive shops operating on Jejudo, although Ralf is one of the few who offer courses in English. Remember to bring a change of underclothes or a swim suit along – a wet suit means you will get dampish underneath!