The monk of the lone temple on the island is also surprised to see me. He’s been here for seven years and it’s the first western foreigner he’s had the pleasure of meeting. Inviting me into his sitting room we sit down and begin to talk about life on Gapado.

There are about two hundred people on the islet, predominantly working and/or servicing the fishing industry. Gapado is popular among touring Korean fishermen and caters for them accordingly. But it’s also home to sixty Haenyeo, the eldest pushing eighty years old. When not in the ocean, they’re in the fields tending to crops, the other main source of income for islanders. The monk says it’s always windy, illustrated by an almost complete lack of second storey buildings and trees. In fact there seem to be high stone walls everywhere to protect from the wind. Finally, I ask how many students study at the elementary school – “about twelve,” he says.

And right next door to the temple is the school itself, which, for twelve students, is rather spacious. Wandering into the grounds, discarded sports equipment sits on the soccer field ready to be picked up again when school resumes. Inside the building, doors are flung open to reveal a surprisingly modern interior.

Back out on the main road that intersects the island I pass an assortment of residents going about their business. All stop to look at me as I pass. And I oblige them with more waves and smiles. Four old ladies with push carts occupy the whole road. I wave. They flash me toothy grins as they continue to the local church for a service. Next a father and daughter pass by on a scooter and say “hi”. A Haenyeo in full gear ambles down the street. A man in a pickup truck brushes by and offers us a lift somewhere. Making a stop in a store (almost in someone’s front room) for ice cream, a mother and son look up at me. The kid just can’t stop staring.

After I’d been on Gapado for twenty minutes I realized that there really wasn’t anything to see or do in the traditional tourist sense. But then, it’s the whole island, and the people itself which are on show.

Almost three hours after I had arrived, it was time to leave again. On the wharf-side groups of Korea fishing tourists appeared in the back of trucks as did a group of young school children who have enjoyed a night on the islet as part of a field trip. But again, not another foreigner in sight. So, to observe Jeju as it once was and visit a place almost untouched by tourism, Gapado is definitely a place to consider.

Visitor Information

Gapado is located off the southwest tip of Jeju. To reach the islet from Jeju City, take a bus from stand eight bound for Moseulpo at the Jeju City Bus Terminal (3,000 won / one hour). Let the driver know you’re going to Gapado and he will let you off at the correct stop (모슬포항). You’ll know you’re close after you pass Sanbangsan (another five to ten minutes). You’ll have to walk on down past the GS25 (load up on snacks and supplies because they are in short supply on the islet) and onto the road that stretches into the distance. Finally on your right appears an excursion centre for the Gapado ferry (4,000 won one way / twenty minutes). The building’s blue and white decor wouldn’t be out of place in New England. The twenty minute crossing in an aging ferry can be rough, so take the proper precautions to avoid sea-sickness.

There really is a lack of specific tourist sights so wander the island slowly and make sure to walk down the paths between each of the houses. Pop in at the temple, which is actually in a house next to the elementary school. If your Korean is okay, chat with the priest. Done slowly it should take about three hours. Which is when the ferry will return to take you back to Jeju.

It is possible to hire fishing equipment, have a swimming ‘experience’ with the Haenyeo divers and snorkel. Visit http://www.gapari.co.kr for more information (Korean language only).

Ferry Schedule

Maseulpo – Gapado
9:00
12:00
16:00

Gapado – Maseulpo
(Buy your return ticket from the man in the silver hut on the wharf)

9:25
12:25
16:25

View Larger Map

Traveling on Udo

Upon arrival at Udo one has a few choices of transportation. The ferry is able to transport cars, so if you are one of the lucky ones on this island who have their own wheels, bring them along. For those who don’t have wheels, you have three choices:

1. For the least adventurous, climbing into a bus that carts you over the island and stops at all the major tourist places is a good idea. The island is so small that you could probably see everything in an hour and be ready to go back by the next ferry, but you may need up to a few hours to take in all of the scenery.

2. There are a couple of places you can rent cute-looking scooters. However, the price is a bit steep – about 20,000 won per hour.

3. The most economical selection would be a bicycle. The bike choices range from grandma bikes with baskets in the front to nice mountain bikes with gears. We chose the mountain bikes which cost 10,000 won for the day. The gentleman renting the bicycles wanted us to give him our IDs as collateral, and, in return, he provided us with a bungee cord to strap our junk onto the bag holder on the back and a road map with his phone number written on it.

Things to see and do

We jumped on our bikes and merrily set off. The first stop was Hongjodangoe Haebin Beach (홍조단괴해빈 해수욕장), the only beach in Korea made of chunks of brilliant white coral. The next stop was at a cove filled with haenyeo divers. They were mesmerizing to watch as first one and then the next would go flippers up and slowly surface again, whistling as they emerged, hopefully with something to put in their catch baskets. We continued on our circuitous route of the island, making multiple stops to take pictures of the stunning vistas: yellow canola flowers contrasting with rock walls and the blue of the sea, young men doing military service by mowing said flowers down with scythes and Exacto knives, elderly women drying seaweed drying seaweed in the middle of the road, and the lava/sandstone cliffs at Tolkani (톨까니). At Tolkani, one can get a ride in a jet boat to explore the caves in the cliff. One can also hike up the hill in order to take pictures of the colourfully tiled roofs of the small villages set among fields of grain. Our meandering cycle took us less than three hours and then we caught the ferry back to Jeju.

Ferry Information

Ferries run at least hourly. The first one to Udo is at 8:30 and the last one to leave from there is at 4:30. Call the ferry at 782-5671 for more information.

Visiting fishermen with serious looking equipment make their way towards the rich fishing grounds. Another visiting foreigner makes an introduction before boarding the solitary island bus service that has just arrived. From that arriving bus steps Calvin Rains, the first and only foreigner to be based here permanently, teaching English at the three schools. I immediately warm up to Calvin and his geniality as we fall into conversation about Chujado life.

We are in Daeseo, the largest of the villages and he’s pointing out the biggest supermarket, the only post office and smattering of fish restaurants. A short walk takes us to an overlooking bluff and we see how precariously close to the water Daeseo sits. With a population of about one thousand three hundred: “basically this island seems to consist of about five little villages,” Calvin details. “Cargo comes in at my end of the island… that’s Sinyang, somewhere over the hills” he says pointing.

Coming back to the dockside there’s a sudden stillness hanging in the air. With the Pink Dolphin gone the only sound is the irregular put-put of a scooter or rushing wind of a passing vehicle. The odd child sits on a wall here and there. However, from the community centre the continuous drone and banging of gongs begins celebrating the Seollal holiday. This is a rare disturbance in the otherwise tranquil air.

“The big thing about this island is fishing,” Calvin continues. “Whenever I mention it to Korean’s that’s what they say… best place in all of Korea.” And judging by the bait shops, accommodation logos and Korean tourist literature that is indeed true.

With minimal facilities on the island for residents I ask him if he finds himself getting bored. He answers with a straight “no”. “I watch TV, I do a lot of Internet like Skype. A lot of walks and hikes.” The school plays a large role in his social life too with clubs and dinners. Going to Jeju is always an option, when the ferry runs of course. “That’s the only way to get out of here… there’s a heliport. I’ve seen one helicopter but it’s really for medical emergencies. You can probably charter it too, but it probably costs a fortune… [The] first week of January I was stuck here for a week… I was supposed to be in China” Calvin says.

Following a visit to the lighthouse, we journey to Calvin’s end of the island, Sinyang, jumping on the bus as it stops for gas. Peering out through the window we’re precariously on the edge again A few of the five villages pass by and we notice that there is even less here – no chain convenience stores, perhaps one or two pension’s catering for fisherman. The school is the largest and most modern building around. We ask some locals about a beach but we’re unable to find the sand.

With the sun going down and darkness approaching we return to Daeseo for an evening meal, though due to the holiday choices are even more limited (a polite restaurant owner who should really be closed whipped up Kimchi-Jiggae). Now there is noise and commotion from the harbour front as groups of men move about the night between the sprinkling of bars. A piercing light emits from the lighthouse above.

We wait for the last bus that will take Calvin home. I move from foot to foot to keep warm as the temperature has dropped considerably. As it departs I turn to my Minbak, pulling up my collar up against the chill. And take time to admire the lone foreigner that chooses to live out here : “I could come here for six months or a year,” he had said earlier. With the six months almost over it seems as if he’ll be here six months more- on this fascinating, isolated, and overlooked edge of Korea.

GETTING AROUND
There is a lone bus (900 won), which circulates the island (check timetable at Chujado passenger terminal). There is no regular taxi service. However, Call Taxi service is available (10,000 won all destinations).

THINGS TO DO
Fishing is by far Chujado’s largest draw, though mainly for Korean, Japanese and Chinese fishermen. Equipment is available but most who arrive are already prepped and ready. If you intend to fish it might be best to go with a Korean speaker.

Hiking is another popular draw. Consider taking the bus to Sinyang and then hiking back to Daeseo via the various trails.

THINGS TO SEE
Chujado Lighthouse
General Choi, Young Shrine
Tomb of Hwang, Gyung Han
Chuja Shrine of Cheosa

The lighthouse is the most time-consuming of the attractions. It’s a fair climb up the wooden stairs and there’s a great view from the very top (climbing the lighthouse itself). There is a tiny museum (Korean language only) inside.

Other attractions can be done within minutes. For more information visit
www.jejulife.net/chujado/

FOOD
Heavily tilted towards fish dishes. There is also Korean BBQ, Chinese (serving Jajangmyeon and fried rices) and fried chicken. The island’s speciality is the Yellow Croaker fish. Convenience stores sell the usual wares.

ACCOMODATION
Pre-booked accommodation can be arranged by dialling 1130 for English Assistance. There are a sprinkling of pensions around the harbour front that are clean and functional. Seasonable pricing.

ITINERARY LENGTH
If you’re not planning on fishing or hiking too far then Chujado and its sights can be seen within a day trip, arriving on the morning Pink Dolphin service and departing late afternoon as it returns from Mokpo. For those fishing or hiking it is recommended to stay the night, catching the slower ferry back to Jeju the following morning.