What’s on offer

One of my favourite places on the island for good old vintage clothing or a trip down memory lane, for example, is a store near Junggangro (Jeju-si) called The Butterfly Effect. Albeit on the pricier side, the store did at one point carry the Reebok Pump (yes the one that you physically pump with air yourself) and, let’s face it, you can’t put a price tag on history. For more expensive fashion taste buds, Yeondong in Sin-Jeju has mid-to-high range stores and also offers an array of western retailers, such as Levis, Morgan, Calvin Klein, Adidas and Nike. For bargain hunters, Jung-ang-ro in Jeju-si is definitely the place to be; A-Z and Young Casual, for example, offer a plethora of cheap to moderately priced accessories, clothes (jeans from 9,000 won to 12,000 won), and even stationary. Its Seogwipo equivalents, Off and On, and Buddy also offer similar merchandise to be enjoyed. Furthermore, Total Fashion Mall (one of my personal favourites, and conveniently located in both cities) carries a large collection of children’s, men’s and women’s clothing. One of the highlights of any trip to this establishment is the never- depleted supply of Konglish shirts (that is why I affectionately named this little gem “The Konglish Shirt Store”). Around both Jeju and Seogwipo, however, conspicuous consumption isn’t the only activity on the agenda. Both cities not only fulfill some of your shopping desires but they are great places to people watch and get a great sense of the Jeju-do style.

Add even more to your wardrobe

Upon recent excursions in and around Jeju, my observations led to the conclusion that the hot items in Jeju this spring include oversized totes and skinny jeans (for both the gals and the guys), loose fitting skirts for the ladies, and XL t-shirts which double as dresses when paired with tights (cute and comfy). No outfit would be complete without the proverbial Konglish shirt, which, of course, can be enjoyed by all shapes, sizes, ages and genders. In the shoe department, women cannot deny themselves the class and charm of a cute heel. And trust me ladies, speaking from experience, you won’t find cuter nor more comfortable shoes anywhere else (they need to be comfy, because, after all, one must maneuver in them on any given terrain). For men, the classic runner has made a comeback on the island. The retro Nike, Puma and Adidas styles seem to be a predominate shoe of choice when matched with a classic baseball cap. As well, for the men out there looking to impress the ladies, I have just one word for all you fellas: MANTIES! (Yes the male panty-and, trust me guys, these treasures can be found virtually everywhere on the island).

To tell the truth I can probably ramble on about all the shops and fashion trends this island has to offer for at least another four paragraphs, but, instead, I will let some of the pictures do the talking. After all, fashion is a visual spectacle, not a verbal expression of oneself.

Butterfly Effect is located up from Junangro towards City Hall on the right hand side. Total Fashion Mall is located across from Ediya Coffee.

A hard worker

Meet Mr. Changsoo Lee, owner and operator of Sungsil Tropical Fish Store. His shop is located at the Jeju City Five-Day Market. Mr. Lee works with his nephew, Kim Kwangil, and they can be found tending to fish and fish lovers from 9 am to 8 pm on any days that end in a 2 or a 7. His shop is stocked with fish, critters, and supplies, and he is always eager to be of assistance though you might find that his shop is usually quite busy. However, his interest in speaking English and interacting with foreigners makes him another unique Lee who is able and ready to meet your needs.

Mr. Lee is a family man. He is married and has one son. In his spare time, he enjoys playing baseball and soccer, and he maintains a high interest in making time for his family. This is part of the reason he got into the family fish business about four years ago. He enjoys his work because of the flexibility it provides for his personal life. While selling fish is one source of income, Changsoo is also a taxi driver. At both jobs, he is able to work his schedule around his family life.

What’s on sale

If you make it down to the market to see Changsoo, you will find a colourful display of fish, including mollies, cichlids, betas, and tetras, as well as an interesting variety of smaller pets like turtles, crayfish, gerbils, and porcupines. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, it isn’t a problem. Mr. Lee will special order any kind of fish and can have it ready for pickup within ten days. He also travels to Busan six times a month to pick up new fish and supplies. At any given time, you will find his shop stocked with tanks of all sizes, filters, food, and accessories for your underwater heaven. You can find tanks for as little as 5000 won for a goldfish-sized bowl to 150,000 won for a 90cm tank. Accessories start at a buck and go up, and fish are as little at 2000 won apiece. Mr. Lee can also provide you with the chemicals you need to maintain water purity in addition to rocks, plants, bubblers, and lights to customize the look and feel of your aquarium.

Changsoo sells starter tanks for beginners. For 75,000 won, you can get a 45cm tank with a light, a filter, rocks, and chemicals. His most popular fish are goldfish and colored tetras which are perfect for novice to seasoned fish hobbyists. Mr. Lee and his nephew will also answer any questions you may have about caring for your pets.

Finding Mr Lee

To find Mr. Lee at the market, head in the main entrance and pass the first few vendors. Take a right and walk past about another six vendors. Mr. Lee’s shop will be the second fish stand on the left just across from the cactus and plant stand. For more information, you can contact him at 010-8664-8668.

With three stores dotted across the Island, the Greenville Organic Supermarkets offer relatively convenient places to purchase organic products. Carrying a wide-ranging (though incomplete) inventory there is a good selection with one or two more unique items found stowed away in its recesses. We visited the Nohyeong and Gu-Jeju locations.

The steady trickle of foreigners throughout the week to the Nohyeong store tend toward purchasing organic meats from the main freezers. Beef (300g for 16,000 won) and chicken breast (300g for 6,000 won from the freezer next to the counter) prove to be most popular lines.

Non-perishable items such as cereals, cane sugar, cookies, and even expensive ramen, are available. Drinks include hot chocolate powder, organic coffee and premium pomegranate juice (premium indeed at 9,000 won for 500ml).

The fridge next to the counter contains dairy products. Blueberry, strawberry and plain flavoured yogurt in stout glass bottles tastes good. But, considering how fast it will be over, 5,000 won each tends to be on the expensive side. There is goat’s milk, beneficial for those who are lactose intolerant, and locally produced Jeju milk in the dark blue coloured cartons. Unfortunately though, there is no cheese at the store.

From the counter you can also pick up the store’s inventory and special offer leaflet (Korean language only). The staff can order items in for you as they don’t carry everything noted in the catalogue.

The Gu-Jeju store is the larger of the two locations we visited and a little easier to find than the Nohyeong store. It is located across the street from the Gateball Stadium, a few blocks back from the bus terminal in amongst the stadium complexes. Extra items available here include Aceto Balsamic Vinegar (13,000 won for 250 ml), Bio Bircher Muesli (500g for 12,500 won) and Bamboo Leaf Wine (12% alcohol and 2,200 won a bottle). There is also a larger meat selection that includes whole hormone-free chickens (8,300 won for 900g).

It is an expensive place to do your shopping on a regular basis as prices are almost always double those in regular stores. However, for that special dinner, occasional treat or gift, the Green Village Organic Supermarkets deserve a recommendation. They’re also handy for those with allergies and other dietary requirements.

[Gu Jeju]

[Shin Jeju]