Skate and tube to your heart’s content
Story and photos by Jenie Hahn

The hottest new attraction just opened in Jeju-si, and it’s cool. Really cool.

After months of legal wrangling, Jeju Ice Land finally opened to the public Feb. 3, with an indoor ice rink and tubing slope promising fun for kids of all ages.

Step inside the building and you will be greeted by a blast of cold air and warmly dressed staff members. On the left is the payment counter and snack bar. On the right is a gently sloped tubing run with red rubber tubes piled up waiting for riders. The slope is just steep enough to have fun – even more so for the kids. Also to this side is an area for ice skate collection, helmets (a must wear) and coin-operated lockers (500 won non-refundable, so be sure you’ve prepared everything before you lock it).

On the second floor is an ice rink that is shaped sort of like a kidney with angular sides – and padded pillars. There is a walkway surrounding most of it and a portion of the walls are large windows, letting in plenty of natural light.

A leisurely skate | Photo: Jenie Hahn

While I was there, Mr. Pyun Hae-kang, Ice Land staff member, was coaching a few beginners. When asked if Ice Land offered lessons he said, “We will cater to beginners who have no ice skating experience. They are welcome to ask for lessons or a few pointers.” And of lesson done in English, he laughed and said, “I can give simple instructions like ‘stop’ or ‘bend your knees’ but that’s about it.”

One of the drawbacks to the rink’s location is it’s difficult to get to without a car. On a newly built road linking Sinjeju and Gujeju above City Hall, there is no direct public transportation. However, it’s an inexpensive taxi ride from City Hall, around 3000 won, and about the same from Lotte Mart. That’s pretty reasonable with a few skating mates along. Mr. Kim Jeon-sik, a managing director of Jeju Ice Land, said, “We are aware of the difficulties in transportation and we are considering running shuttle buses from well-known locations but that’s for the future. We apologize for any transportation difficulties for now.”

You can try your luck hailing a taxi on the road outside or opt for the call taxi number available at the front desk. Ask the staff to arrange one to take you back to the city. For the nearest bus services, see map below.

Ice skating might not be the first activity you associate with “The Hawaii of Korea,” but it’s a nice change from Jeju’s many outdoor pursuits.

Jeju Ice Land pricing and practical information:

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- Open 10 a.m. – 10 p.m., seven days a week (last entry 9 p.m.)
- 10,000 won (one adult). (7,000 for rink access and 3,000 won for skate rental, though you can bring your own to negate this additional fee.)
- 4,000 won per person for tubing.
- Helmet rental is included in the price of admission and is collected when picking up your skates. A helmet must be worn at all times on the ice.
- Gloves must also be worn and are available from the ground floor, at the desk next to the payment counter (500 won).
- Skate sizes range up to 290.
- No smoking or drinking is allowed within the ice rink.
- Skating is conducted in an anti-clockwise direction.

Website: http://www.jejuiceland.co.kr
Phone: 721-1000
Location: 277, Donamdong, Jeju City (On Yeonbuk-ro which is a new road that connects Gujeju and Sinjeju).

The building in which the rink is housed | Credit: Jenie Hahn

Other (seasonal) Ice skating on the island:

Lotte Hotel in Jungmun creates an outdoor rink every winter for a limited time.

Everyone goes wild, there is kissing, hugging, screaming – everyone in some way expressing their pent-up rage caused by the disappointing start to the season. In that moment it feels like life can’t get any better. Jeju United has finally scored and everyone is in ecstacy. Then disaster strikes – the linesman has raised his flag for offside. The goal has been disallowed. Jeju United loses, and the Insane Islanders have to endure another sad and lonely walk home.

The team on the field

As an Insane Islander myself, I was devastated by the cruel nature of this defeat. I began to wonder if Jeju was to become the laughing stock of Korean football. Yet I write this article at the half-way point of the season and things are looking promising – the team has started winning. The defence has begun to look solid, the team’s movement has improved, and star players Homulo and Cho Jin Su have really begun to look like formidable opposition. We also have our lethal man on the bench – the unsung hero of Jeju, the orange boot wearing Shin Pyeong Ho. More than once he has come on to the pitch and changed the game – most notably in the away match at Daegu, which we went on to win 4-2. This win was followed a week later by our first home win – a superb 3-1 victory over Gwangju Sangmu Phoenix.

As unbelievable as this may have sounded in April, Jeju now is just 4 points off a play-off position and is looking to qualify for the semifinals of the League Cup. Both of these targets are realistic if the side gets the support they need.

Watching a game

Going to a Jeju United match is one of the must do activities for both residents and visitors to Jeju. Standing behind the goal, you can savour the atmosphere created by the drumming, the singing and the flares. The games, whilst not being played at the same level of skill as the English Premier League, are jam-packed with tension and excitement. You can even be accepted by the Jeju natives as an Insane Islander. Indeed, Jeju United is like a small community in its own right bringing Korean locals and foreign residents together. I hope more of the Jeju Life readership will join us.

Games are played at the World Cup Stadium in Shin-Seogwipo, next to E-Mart. For Jeju City residents, the Seogwipo bound buses, which pick up at the Bus Terminal and Halla Hospital, stop directly outside of the stadium. Admission is 7,000 won and, even if you’re not a football fanatic, you can enjoy 2,000 won beer on the terraces. The fixture list is available on the Jeju Life website.

MacLellan’s history with Baseball

MacLellan‘s first encounters with the league came in October 2007 when he went to see Matt Leman playing. After watching for a while, he asked to sign up and five minutes later found himself on the same roster as his friend. But, with the season coming to a close, it wouldn’t be until April 2008 that he’d be able to start.

Prior to joining here, MacLellan had played little league until he was sixteen and busted his elbow. More recently, he played softball with his university while continuing to play for recreation and fun with friends.

In the Jeju league, the level of recreation or seriousness seems to depend on the player. He notes: “[the players] are fathers. They just want to get out and have some fun… I do too, but my competitive edge comes every now and again.” The team he plays for won last year and there are high expectations to repeat the success.

How has the reception been towards the foreigners on the team? “I think it has been a really good reception,” he says. “In fact, the Baseball Association has asked to get foreigners on other teams.” Currently only two (including MacLellan) participate.

You don’t have to step foot on the field to be a part of the proceedings either. There is no admission fee to enter the stadium, so you can walk in and take a seat. Perhaps bring a barbeque, bring some soju and enjoy yourselves in the stands. “When you’re watching the pitches and behind is Hallasan, the sun is setting over right field. It’s just a beautiful place,” MacLellan waxes lyrically.

Be committed

However, he offers this advice for those wanting to sign up: be committed. “If you’re going to sign up, go to every game… it’s representing the foreigners.” And he does make one note of caution. There is a language barrier. “I don’t speak Korean. They don’t speak English… try and get two people to play on a team so you’re not so alone.”

The season has already started and, the sooner you sign up, the sooner you can get on a team and the sooner you can get playing. “It’s a lot of fun,” MacLellan finishes, “baseball is a lot of fun.”

Getting involved

The regular season runs from early April until late October. There is a break in November followed by the playoffs in early December. Games are played once every two weeks with practice on the off weeks. Games have a two hour time limit. To sign up, you’ll need your name, passport, address and 200,000 won. For your money you’ll get 10-12 games, 10-12 practices and food after each. For equipment, you’ll need a glove and cleats.

If anyone is interested in signing up, call Troy at 010-5805-6263. For those more pro-active, visit the association office at the stadium during office hours. Telephone: 064-755-6867 Name: 이 일큔 Translator advised.

The stadium is located within the sports complex behind the bus terminal in Jeju City.

The Ballantine’s Championship attracted some of the biggest names in golf, including American PGA player Chris DiMarco, 2007 British Open champion Padraig Harrington, 9 time European tour winner Thomas Bjorn and Paul McGinley, who featured on three consecutive Ryder Cup winning teams. KJ Choi, the greatest Korean player ever to grace the game, entered the field with a world number 5 ranking and attracted huge throngs of Korean fans throughout the tournament. “It’s always good to be back in Korea,” Choi earlier told reporters, “I just want to give the best performance I can.”

The championship was also a homecoming for Jeju native Yang Yong-Eun, who beat out Tiger Woods in 2006 to take the HSBC Champions in Shanghai. He was joined on the lynx by American-born Anthony Kim, a rising star on the PGA tour whose parents immigrated to America from Korea in 1971.

But in the opening days of the tournament the greatest opponent facing the field was Jeju’s infamously fearsome winds, causing lengthy delays on the first and second days and significantly affecting play.

Just ask Graeme McDowell. His driving distance is usually around 285 yards, but on day two saw the winds carry his tee-off nearly 340. Anthony Kim also complained about the high winds, but said recent emphasis on strength training helped him power through them.

Despite the tough conditions, Chris DiMarco managed to birdie 3 of the first 5 holes in round one. When asked if he’d like to continue in the windy conditions in light of his early success DiMarco replied amusingly, “No, I’m good. I’d rather play in calm conditions to tell you the truth.”

The tournament drew sizeable crowds from this normally tranquil island, whose economy is based primarily on tourism and the production of oranges. They came in large part to cheer on local heroes KJ Choi and Yang Yong-Eun, snapping pictures with their cell phones and cheering boisterously with every swing of the club.

The tournament ended with Northern Ireland’s Graeme McDowell and India’s Jeev Milkha Singh sharing the lead and forcing a playoff. On the third playoff hole, Singh missed a crucial birdie putt to give McDowell his first European Tour win since 2004. He took home the €2 million ($2.9 million) prize and bottle number one of that coveted 40 year old Ballantine’s Scotch whiskey.

With the success of this year’s tournament, organizers plan to make the Ballantine’s Championship in Jeju an annual event.