A darker story from Jeju’s history
Story and photos by Jim Saunders

Long known as a place for internal exile and persecution, the turn of the 19th century saw the flames of rebellion ignite once again on Jeju with Lee Jae Soo’s (이재수) uprising against an increasing number of Catholic missionaries and native converts spreading out across the island. The result: a massacre of some three hundred Catholics and the creation of Jeju’s first Catholic cemetery, which remains with us to this modern day.

The seeds of the massacre, however, were first sown in 1886 with an agreement between Korea and France which legally opened the country to their Catholic missionaries who had previously been unable to practice freely without persecution. Two churches were established on Jeju but local government officials continued an unwelcoming stance which was reciprocated with an increasing lack of trust from the Catholic community. The situation was not helped by certain individuals taking advantage of the agreement- local tax collectors, Bong Sae-Kwan (봉새관) Kang Bong-Won (강 봉원) extorted tax and gave special benefits to Catholics.

Natives of the Daejeong area would in turn organize themselves against such actions, to create the Sang Moo Sa Won (상무사원), led by district head, Chae Goo-Shik (채구식). One member of this organization beat a Catholic before being captured by a Catholic party and beaten himself. This man, Oh Shik-Ran (오 식란) committed suicide, which was one of the final incidents that served as a catalyst for the uprising against the Catholics, led by Lee Jae-Soo (이재수).

The uprising begins

From May 28 through May 30, 1901, the organization descended on Jeju City where many of them lived. The Mayor of Jeju, Kim Chang-Soo (김창수), had attempted to disperse the group, but upon failing was forced to join his soldiers with the Catholics, to fight against the uprising. At first they fared well but the situation swung out of their favour and in front of Gwandeokjeong, using long pikes and stones, some three hundred Catholics were brutally killed by the Sang Moo Sa Won.

The leading French priest on the island at the time, Father Marcel Lacrouts, survived, and as the dead went unburied, reported the incident to his government. A French battle ship was duly dispatched to Jeju and the uprising settled down. The bodies from Gwandeokjeong were laid to rest between Beouldobong (next to Sarabong) and Hwa-buk dong.

However, in 1903 Catholics asked for a better, lasting place for the remains and as a form of compensation a parcel of land, the Hwang Sa Pyeong (황사평), was given to them by the Jeju government. Thus, in amongst the peaceful tangerine groves, with Halla mountain as ever in the background, those killed were placed in a newly created cemetery.

Another little known and dark chapter of Jeju’s history awaits discovery at the Hwang Sa Pyeong where, today, a raised stone basin with earth mounded on top contains the interned remains. It is a far cry from Gwandeokjeong and the brutal deaths that put them here in the early Summer of 1901.

*A film depicting the events detailed above was made in 1999, Lee Jae Soo (이재수의 난) translated directly, or English name, The Uprising.

Visiting Hwang Sa Pyeong cemetery (황사평)

The cemetery is located on the outskirts of Jeju City and can be reached by private transport or taxi.

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Fails to set the sky alight, but has potential
Story and photos by Jim Saunders

Jeju Starlight World, Park and Planetarium is a brand new attraction on the slopes of Hallasan, overlooking Jeju City. Three floors of space related matter (including a 4D theatre, a dome-shaped theatre and an array of high powered telescopes) make for a potentially thrilling experience. Unfortunately, some sheen is taken off a visit by poor planning and organization.

The poor planning is evident even before entering the building. Our taxi got stuck following the small access road to the front of the building where the driver was promptly shouted at by a member of staff for going that way despite no signage indicating a prohibited zone. This was further compounded by the fact that the roads leading up to Starlight World are large four lane affairs. The main parking lot is downhill from the building, accessed by a long, steep, winding path or equally long and steep staircase.

The poor organization continues upon entering the building, with a complete lack of fanfare to let you know that you’re actually entering a planetarium. Instead large amounts of sterile white and gray surfaces bathed in bright glaring lights lead you to feel it’s more like a hospital than anything else. A small counter heralds the ticket desk (with no English language provision). Wandering through the hall to the left of this desk (‘Space Odyssey’), you’ll find little else but the 4D theatre, which runs once every thirty minutes and shows a film unrelated to space.

Short on authentic exhibits from space

The educational exhibition, on the second floor, is a collection of multimedia-touch screens and gimmicky activities for children. Experience gravity on a selection of planets in a special chair (seemingly out of service when Jeju Life tried) or pilot toy Mars Rovers in one corner (parts were already falling off). Potentially redeeming features, such as the multimedia touch screens, while providing information in English about stars and star signs, suffered from translation errors. It was also disappointing that there are no authentic exhibits from space exploration, or even items from the recent Korean space program.

The dome-shaped theatre, which fares better, shows various space related films. Comfortable chairs recline almost 180 degrees allowing your gaze to filter up at the film projected onto the ceiling. Those with longer legs should be careful, however, not to get them crushed by the chair in front. If you are over about 5’2”, go for the first row. Park Chang Hyun, a P.h.d. holding astronomer and English language speaker, was on hand to tell us that films can be shown in English if demand is large enough (usually by reservation).

Telescopes for viewing

By further reservation (and by far, the highlight of a visit), are six (80-200mm) permanently sited high powered telescopes for night sky gazing in the sub-observatory along with the centerpiece telescope in the main observatory (600mm). With retractable roofs and darkened, quiet, interiors this is what a visit should be for. Yet thwarted by poor weather, the telescopes were not operating the night of Jeju Life’s visit. The very expensive equipment was, however, accessible to the public, and we cringed to see small children playing with them like toys. The staff seemed more intent on monitoring the 4-D glasses supply than guarding the real equipment.

Poor interior planning struck again as it was difficult to find these observatories. The sub-observatory is behind a rather normal grey door on a nondescript third-floor corridor. And to get to the main observatory from there, you have to scramble across the flat roof to another door which looks more like a fire escape. Later we found another way to get to the main observatory- down (yet another) nondescript corridor full of offices and seminar rooms. It’s as if Jeju Starlight is ashamed to show off its best attractions. There was a proper, grand granite spiral staircase leading to the observatory, but it was not the main access. It was as if two different architects designed the stairs and where to put them.

A lack of planning and organization also arose after watching one of the films in the dome-shaped theatre. It ended two minutes after the 4D-theatre showing started. Delaying the start of the 4D theatre by five minutes would have allowed the crowd to enter, instead of letting almost all of them file out of the main entrance to go home. It would be another hour before the 4D began again, with little else to do but wander the corridors. Though one thing to do while waiting is soak in the stunning night view of Jeju City, with an uninterrupted vista that stretches from Sin Jeju in the west to Samyang in the east. A large plaza features a sculptural solar system sunk into the brickwork, lit up at night.

Jeju Starlight World has the potential to be a worthy addition to the island’s attractions. However, in its current state, it falls well, well, short. Aforementioned poor planning and organization is compounded by children running amok and a lack of English language provision (despite the attraction being partially funded by the Jeju Free International City authorities).

Using the telescopes is by far and away the best reason (and really, possibly only reason) why you would want to visit Jeju Starlight World.

Practical Information

- Jeju Starlight World, Park and Planetarium is located up the 5.16 road, a short walk up from the main intersection that lead towards Cheju National University.

By Bus

Take any bus going to Cheju National University and get off at the intersection as it pulls off the 5.16 route. Continue up the road on the right hand side. After walking for five minutes you’ll come across the entrance way to the park which is a further 800 metre walk to the building.

By Taxi

A taxi from City Hall should cost around 5,000 won (one way). Tell the driver, “제주 별빛누리공원”. The attraction has not organized a call taxi number for return, so it might be worth considering walking back to the main road.

- Open daily 3 – 11 p.m March-October; 2 – 10 p.m. November – February.
- Closed on Mondays
- Admission is free until June 2009. After that time an adult ticket will cost 5,000 won with gives admission to all attractions including the telescopes.
- Telephone: 064) 728-8900
- http://star.jejusi.go.kr/ (Korean language only)

Skate and tube to your heart’s content
Story and photos by Jenie Hahn

The hottest new attraction just opened in Jeju-si, and it’s cool. Really cool.

After months of legal wrangling, Jeju Ice Land finally opened to the public Feb. 3, with an indoor ice rink and tubing slope promising fun for kids of all ages.

Step inside the building and you will be greeted by a blast of cold air and warmly dressed staff members. On the left is the payment counter and snack bar. On the right is a gently sloped tubing run with red rubber tubes piled up waiting for riders. The slope is just steep enough to have fun – even more so for the kids. Also to this side is an area for ice skate collection, helmets (a must wear) and coin-operated lockers (500 won non-refundable, so be sure you’ve prepared everything before you lock it).

On the second floor is an ice rink that is shaped sort of like a kidney with angular sides – and padded pillars. There is a walkway surrounding most of it and a portion of the walls are large windows, letting in plenty of natural light.

A leisurely skate | Photo: Jenie Hahn

While I was there, Mr. Pyun Hae-kang, Ice Land staff member, was coaching a few beginners. When asked if Ice Land offered lessons he said, “We will cater to beginners who have no ice skating experience. They are welcome to ask for lessons or a few pointers.” And of lesson done in English, he laughed and said, “I can give simple instructions like ‘stop’ or ‘bend your knees’ but that’s about it.”

One of the drawbacks to the rink’s location is it’s difficult to get to without a car. On a newly built road linking Sinjeju and Gujeju above City Hall, there is no direct public transportation. However, it’s an inexpensive taxi ride from City Hall, around 3000 won, and about the same from Lotte Mart. That’s pretty reasonable with a few skating mates along. Mr. Kim Jeon-sik, a managing director of Jeju Ice Land, said, “We are aware of the difficulties in transportation and we are considering running shuttle buses from well-known locations but that’s for the future. We apologize for any transportation difficulties for now.”

You can try your luck hailing a taxi on the road outside or opt for the call taxi number available at the front desk. Ask the staff to arrange one to take you back to the city. For the nearest bus services, see map below.

Ice skating might not be the first activity you associate with “The Hawaii of Korea,” but it’s a nice change from Jeju’s many outdoor pursuits.

Jeju Ice Land pricing and practical information:

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- Open 10 a.m. – 10 p.m., seven days a week (last entry 9 p.m.)
- 10,000 won (one adult). (7,000 for rink access and 3,000 won for skate rental, though you can bring your own to negate this additional fee.)
- 4,000 won per person for tubing.
- Helmet rental is included in the price of admission and is collected when picking up your skates. A helmet must be worn at all times on the ice.
- Gloves must also be worn and are available from the ground floor, at the desk next to the payment counter (500 won).
- Skate sizes range up to 290.
- No smoking or drinking is allowed within the ice rink.
- Skating is conducted in an anti-clockwise direction.

Website: http://www.jejuiceland.co.kr
Phone: 721-1000
Location: 277, Donamdong, Jeju City (On Yeonbuk-ro which is a new road that connects Gujeju and Sinjeju).

The building in which the rink is housed | Credit: Jenie Hahn

Other (seasonal) Ice skating on the island:

Lotte Hotel in Jungmun creates an outdoor rink every winter for a limited time.

New tourist attraction goes with a glass theme
Story and photos by Jim Saunders

Upon entering one of Jeju’s newest tourist attractions, the Glass Castle, the striking similarities with Loveland will soon become readily apparent. It’s as if the business model that sustains Loveland has been picked up and plonked down again somewhere else on the island. Only this time the sexually explicit sculptures have been exchanged for tasteful works of art made from glass.

The Glass Castle contains six themed areas with some 350 works on display, and a walking course around the attraction that follows a predetermined route. A mirror maze, tunnel of jewels and eternal ring are highlights, as is the glass heart – if only to see the endless rows of couples lining up to have their photograph taken alongside. Indoor exhibition halls explore the origins of the material and have exquisite Venetian items from Italy for viewing.

The upper floors of the large multi-colored, main building, are seen on the way out, providing a chance to buy some glass fashioned items. There are hands-on experience studios in which artists cover a wide range of glass making techniques. Visitors can craft their creations into items such as necklaces and earrings with prices starting at around 5,000 won (increasing to 40,000 won or more).

Despite the large number of visitors many chose not to join in the studio experience, which is a shame given how unique it is to the island. Many press their noses against a window to observe the work in progress, but none put down money to try it themselves. However, after considering a hefty 9,000 won tourist admission fee (6,500 won with alien card discount) and a further 10,000 won to make anything of worth it an expensive stop on a day’s itinerary. Factor in a whole family and prices spiral even higher.

The obligatory presence of Jeju’s Dolharubang in glass form then, leads to the conclusion that the attraction is almost exclusively for visiting Korean tourists from the mainland. This is further reinforced by a lack of English translation and busy car park full of rental cars and tour buses bearing the name of a mainland province.

The Glass Castle may not be as much fun as Loveland (and it is smaller). But it is worth at least one visit, day or night. Especially with the Spirited Garden, Peace Museum, and Ghengis Khan show all within a short drive to lengthen out a stay in the often under visited western interior of Jeju island.

How to get there

The Glass Castle is located on the western side of the island. It is highly recommended that you have your own transport. A taxi from the bus terminal will cost at least 23,000 won (one way). Alternatively, take the coastal road bus (2,000~3000 won) heading to Hallim. From Hallim it is best to take a taxi to complete the trip. A local bus service is available but it is erratic and runs an irregualr intervals. On an English language tourist map the Glass Castle is on the blue road midway between the Male Stone Turtle Museum and Sulloccha Museum.

http://www.jejuglasscastle.com

Main building in which the glass making techniques are housed | Credit: Jim Saunders

Getting to the Glass Castle | Credit: Jeju Glass Castle