According to some, the 10m high and 30m long volcanic rock formation perched along the ocean side is said to resemble a dragon’s head – a fact which has garnered the formation’s fanciful name of Yongduam; literally, Dragon’s Head Rock. Some say it no longer looks like a dragon, as a portion of the rock fell off during a heavy storm long ago. Others say it no longer looks like it’s perched for flight, as a backdrop of hotels is now interfering with the former site of glittering basaltic rock that extended into a seemingly eternal sky.

As I glanced about, I could see two birds lazily sunning themselves on the outskirts of the trail, unmindful of the silk green forest draped upon them. The leaves were in every shade of green and continued, it seemed at times, as far as the eye could see. Any holes in the greenery allowed for views of the blue hued ocean or the town below. I had heard rumors that when I reached the cave at the top of the path, views of Marado Island and Dragon Head Coast were available, in addition to the sight of the Buddhist temple located inside the tiny cubbyhole of the 10 meter cave. Sighing, I knew this spot was one of uninterruptible beauty. At that moment, melodious chords of “Baby, One More Time” gently floated up the mountain to reach my ears from the amusement ride below. Oops. Perhaps it wasn’t uninterruptible.

The imposing keep of Yakcheon Temple looms over Jeju’s southern coastline, attended to by a cluster of palm and orange trees as it looks commandingly to the sea. It’s said to have been built over a mystical, medicinal stream, from which the name “Yak” (medicine) “Ch’eon” (stream) “sa” (temple) is derived. Local authorities built it on a massive scale, perhaps as much to draw throngs of tourists as hordes of worshippers. At 37,000 p’yong, (122,100 sq meters) Yakcheonsa is the second largest temple complex on the island. Its enormous size and stunning, unique artwork makes it one of Southern Jeju’s most awe inspiring attractions.