Looking for a truly unique Buddhist temple experience? Then take a hike. Really. Chonja-am temple is located 1,200 meters above sea level, at the foot of Pollae oreum, and is accessed by foot only from the Yeongsil trail lower parking lot.

After about a 20 minute leisurely uphill stroll through the open forest, the temple suddenly pops out of the trees, an imposing structure built and decorated in the classic Chosun period style.

The peaceful temple in the woods is a hermitage, occupied by a sole monk who is tasked with living there for “1,000 days of prayer.” In all that time Seon monk Ji-hong Sunim will not leave the temple grounds. He arrived in October and spends his days in various forms of meditation, but heartily welcomes guests.

Monk Ji-hong (left) chats over tea with Ko Young-ja Photo courtesy: Ko Young-ja

On a recent trip a group of nine visitors trod the snow-covered trail to reach the temple, where the grey-clad monk greeted them with a steaming pot of tea. Over many, many cups of tea he talked, through interpreter Ko Young-ja, about his life as a monk, and imparted bits of Buddhist teachings.

While mindfully pouring tea he told the guests of the five foods that should be avoided, as they stimulate desire (garlic was among them), and that thoughts can affect you negatively, even if they are not expressed.

The serene site consists of the main temple, a smaller building in the same style that serves as the reception house and several utilitarian buildings such as the dining room.

Chonja-am is listed as Jeju Monument No. 43, and is also the site of Jeju Tangible Cultural Asset No. 17, the Se-jon-sa-ri-top stupa.

The stone stupa, set on an octagonal base, is a remnant of the original temple, which was built in the late Koryo or earlier Chosun period, in the late 14th century. It is thought to be the site of the first Buddhist temple on Jeju-do.

The temple site fell into disuse until the early 1990s, when excavation work uncovered remnants of the original building foundation, shards of pottery and the stupa. The current buildings were built on the original site.

Intricate patterns adorn the structure Credit: Marcie Miller

Visitors are free to walk around the grounds, breathe in the fresh mountain air and sip cold spring water while feeling worldly tensions fall away. It’s also possible to take a peek into the temple, but be considerate of the dedicated worshippers who have made the trek to meditate and pay homage to the Buddha. Absolutely no flash photography in the temple!

It may be possible in the near future for visitors to stay overnight on the site and partake in Buddhist ceremonies, but those plans have not been finalized. When they are we will post it on Jeju Life.

To get to Chonja-am temple from Jeju-si take the 1139 road from Nohyeong rotary and turn off at the road for Mt. Halla’s Yeongsil trail. The temple is labeled “Jonjaam” on the Jeju-do tourist map. Park in the lot at the entrance booth. The trail is on the left side of the parking lot, opposite the toilets.

“Which way to Alddreu Airfield?” we asked.

Straightening up a little and turning to look at us: “You’re in it!” came the reply. “And, to see the hangers, you have to keep following this road straight!” she added while waving the tool in her hand a little.

We looked around slightly incredulously. Fields of crops stretched in every direction with only Sanbangsan standing tall in the near distance. We started off again down the single track road in amongst the fields with dried mud kicking up from our car’s tires. A few minutes later, the first of the remaining structures from the airfield appeared- reinforced, concrete aircraft hangers, overgrown with long grass swirling in the light breeze.

Nineteen of the twenty hangers built by the Japanese during their occupation of Jeju Island remain today. However, the hangers are only a small left over of a much larger site that began its history in 1937.

Initially constructed to provide a base for bombing runs to mainland China the airfield expanded to include various facilities such as artillery stands and bomb-storage sites. According to one source, there were also underground bunkers that historians suggest were used for meeting rooms for army officials.

Later, as the tide of the Pacific War swung in favour of the Allies, Jeju became strategically important for the defence of the Japanese home islands. Between 1943 and 1944 the airfield was further enlarged to include the hangers that remain today, along with the arrival of a 70,000 men garrison (although the maximum number stationed at the airfield never exceeded around 2,500 according to figures from the Jungang Ilbo).

Of the three airfields built during the occupation (the two others being Jeju International Airport and a ‘lost’ field in Jocheon), Alddreu will be preserved for the future, as each of the hangers are now registered cultural heritage sites. According to further reports, Seogwipo City is planning to develop the area into a major theme park which will include a museum. Construction is scheduled to start in 2009 and last through 2015, the total budget for the project is forecast to be 59.1 billion won.

Unfortunately, the darkened history of Alddreu continued after the war and mixed with the events of 4.3 (the Jeju Massacre, 사삼, in which twenty-five to thirty thousand people died). As the site of the island’s largest arsenal, detonation of munitions by American forces left a deep crater- a crater that would then be used as an execution for about 250 people. The site has only recently been memorialized with a wooden walkway surrounding the crater and explaining events.

Alddreu today is a field with crops in which even the recently re-laid car park for visitors has been reclaimed by farmers. As I climbed up close to inspect one of the hangers, a man in his tractor ploughed his field right in front of me. I slapped the concrete a little. These were built to last and, though their original purpose is redundant, they will continue to sit as a lasting testament to Japanese occupation.

***UPDATE***

+ There is now an old Japanese bunker to climb into and investigate. It is marked on the map below.

+ A trip to the airfield could be combined with a trip to nearby Seongaksan. Here the Japanese built AA guns and dug tunnels into the cliff face, which linked the area with the airfield.

Getting there and visitor information: The airfield is located on the southwest tip of Jeju. Private transport is advised. However, taking a regularly scheduled bus from Jeju City Bus Terminal to Moseulpo port will put you within a hearty walking distance. Alternatively, upon arriving in Moseulpo take a taxi to the area. There are a lack of signs, so it’s probably best to stop and ask locals. The best place to explore the area from is the car park and nearby information boards. This is also very close to the site of the arsenal, which is linked to 4.3. Expect over an hour drive from Jeju City to reach the area. PLEASE SEE THE MAP BELOW FOR MORE DETAILED POSITIONING.

+ Images: http://blog.daum.net/champ48/3548751

The monk of the lone temple on the island is also surprised to see me. He’s been here for seven years and it’s the first western foreigner he’s had the pleasure of meeting. Inviting me into his sitting room we sit down and begin to talk about life on Gapado.

There are about two hundred people on the islet, predominantly working and/or servicing the fishing industry. Gapado is popular among touring Korean fishermen and caters for them accordingly. But it’s also home to sixty Haenyeo, the eldest pushing eighty years old. When not in the ocean, they’re in the fields tending to crops, the other main source of income for islanders. The monk says it’s always windy, illustrated by an almost complete lack of second storey buildings and trees. In fact there seem to be high stone walls everywhere to protect from the wind. Finally, I ask how many students study at the elementary school – “about twelve,” he says.

And right next door to the temple is the school itself, which, for twelve students, is rather spacious. Wandering into the grounds, discarded sports equipment sits on the soccer field ready to be picked up again when school resumes. Inside the building, doors are flung open to reveal a surprisingly modern interior.

Back out on the main road that intersects the island I pass an assortment of residents going about their business. All stop to look at me as I pass. And I oblige them with more waves and smiles. Four old ladies with push carts occupy the whole road. I wave. They flash me toothy grins as they continue to the local church for a service. Next a father and daughter pass by on a scooter and say “hi”. A Haenyeo in full gear ambles down the street. A man in a pickup truck brushes by and offers us a lift somewhere. Making a stop in a store (almost in someone’s front room) for ice cream, a mother and son look up at me. The kid just can’t stop staring.

After I’d been on Gapado for twenty minutes I realized that there really wasn’t anything to see or do in the traditional tourist sense. But then, it’s the whole island, and the people itself which are on show.

Almost three hours after I had arrived, it was time to leave again. On the wharf-side groups of Korea fishing tourists appeared in the back of trucks as did a group of young school children who have enjoyed a night on the islet as part of a field trip. But again, not another foreigner in sight. So, to observe Jeju as it once was and visit a place almost untouched by tourism, Gapado is definitely a place to consider.

Visitor Information

Gapado is located off the southwest tip of Jeju. To reach the islet from Jeju City, take a bus from stand eight bound for Moseulpo at the Jeju City Bus Terminal (3,000 won / one hour). Let the driver know you’re going to Gapado and he will let you off at the correct stop (모슬포항). You’ll know you’re close after you pass Sanbangsan (another five to ten minutes). You’ll have to walk on down past the GS25 (load up on snacks and supplies because they are in short supply on the islet) and onto the road that stretches into the distance. Finally on your right appears an excursion centre for the Gapado ferry (4,000 won one way / twenty minutes). The building’s blue and white decor wouldn’t be out of place in New England. The twenty minute crossing in an aging ferry can be rough, so take the proper precautions to avoid sea-sickness.

There really is a lack of specific tourist sights so wander the island slowly and make sure to walk down the paths between each of the houses. Pop in at the temple, which is actually in a house next to the elementary school. If your Korean is okay, chat with the priest. Done slowly it should take about three hours. Which is when the ferry will return to take you back to Jeju.

It is possible to hire fishing equipment, have a swimming ‘experience’ with the Haenyeo divers and snorkel. Visit http://www.gapari.co.kr for more information (Korean language only).

Ferry Schedule

Maseulpo – Gapado
9:00
12:00
16:00

Gapado – Maseulpo
(Buy your return ticket from the man in the silver hut on the wharf)

9:25
12:25
16:25

View Larger Map

With that final act of rebellion, Jeju’s Mongolian era had begun. For over one hundred years, they used Jeju as an enormous stable, feeding Mongolia’s insatiable thirst for horses and livestock. It also became the staging ground for two unsuccessful invasions of Japan. Goryeo seemed content to leave the oft-neglected island to Mongolia, but when the Mokhos (or Mongolian horsemen) began to incite riots and assassinate local governors and aristocrats, King Gongmin finally lost his patience. He was passionately anti-Chinese, and as Mongolia’s hold over that country waned, Gongmin saw an opportunity to wrest control of Jeju from his erstwhile Mongolian tenants.

So it was that in 1374 Goryeo sent 314 ships containing 25,605 soldiers to retake the Tamra Kingom in Jeju. Continuing in their long standing tradition of thumbing their noses at the mainland, many Jeju residents joined a force of over 3,000 Mokhos who had gone out to meet the Goryeo army at Myeongwolpo Harbor in modern day Jeju City.

Goryeo General Chae Yeong, with his vastly superior numbers, decided to offer the Mokho’s the olive branch so as to avert any unnecessary bloodshed. He therefore sent 11 ships to shore to sue for peace. All aboard were promptly slaughtered by the Mokhos. The act so terrified the Goryeo forces that Chae Yeong had to torture and behead a number of his subordinates before they finally agreed to attack. Once they did, General Chae used his numbers to wrestle the Mokhos from the shoreline. The Mokhos retreated and later regrouped at Saebyeol Oreum, present day site of the Fire Festival, where the two armies fought a vicious battle. Those who survived beat a hasty retreat south towards modern day Seogwipo. There the Goryeo army set up camp in Beophwan-li, near where World Cup Stadium now stands (to this day, the area is still known as “Maksuk” or “Night Camp”). The Mokhos and Goryeo fought their final battle there, with the remaining Mokho forces retreating to Beomseom Island. Legend says Chae dressed Oedelgae rock as an enormous general, and the Mongols killed themselves in a fit of fright. In reality, General Chae had the island surrounded with 40 ships, and sent in hand-picked soldiers to slay the remaining Mokho forces.

With the massacre of the Mokhos at Beomseom, 100 years of Mongolian rule in Jeju came to a close. But if General Chae thought defeating the Mokhos would end their influence on the island he was sorely mistaken. In fact, traces of Mongolian influence still remain to this day. Tamra residents had long been intermarrying with Mongolians, absorbing their language and culture. The Jeju dialect, so distinct from standard Korean, was heavily influenced by Mongolian. Islanders also took to Mongolian dress, and adopted their custom of wearing leather and furs. Even the practices of carrying babies in baskets (as opposed to on their backs) and transporting water by stringing large pots over one’s back come from Mongolia.

Few Mongolian architectural accomplishments have survived the centuries, but tantalizing reminders still dot the island. Wondang Bultap-sa (built in 1300, 6 km east of Jeju-si) was one of Jeju’s reigning centers for Buddhist worship during the Mongol reign of Jeju. Nearly all of the original structure has been destroyed, but a 5 tier pagoda made of basalt still remains, and is said to be completely unique on the island. Just west of Seogwipo is Beophwa-sa, which was built at nearly the same time. It was the most important temple on Jeju until the original structure was destroyed in 1410. Local authorities have carried out excavations since the 1990s. Many interesting discoveries have been made there. The less exciting discoveries, including ancient cornerstones, are lying about on the right hand side of the temple.

But the Mokho spirit perhaps lives strongest in the jorangmal, the Mongolian horses that interbred with local horses to become what we now call “Jeju ponies”. The Mokho’s former steeds are the last living reminder of a Jeju long since past, and a testament to her defiant Mongolian rulers.