Jeju Life » Visiting Jeju?

Fire on the mountain, Jeju-do, South Korea

Marcie Miller — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:55:30 +0000

Fire festival glory | Credit: Mike Laidman

Oreum is set ablaze in annual Jeju Fire Festival
Story by Marcie Miller | Photos by Brian Miller and Mike Laidman

If you’ve ever wanted to be part of a torch-wielding mob, mark your calendar for the 2010 Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival on Jeju, when an entire hillside is set ablaze.

The event is held during the first full moon of the Lunar New Year across Korea. The festival commemorates the practice of burning grassy fields to prepare them for the new growing season. This year’s 14th annual festival on Jeju was Feb. 13 and 14, with the climax hill torching the night of the 14th.

Foreign teachers invited to set off the blaze

Members of the foreign teaching community were among those invited to participate in the torch procession that kicked off the burn, and close to a hundred accepted the offer. After all, it’s not every day you get to be an officially-sanctioned arsonist.

The site of the festival is Saebyeol Oreum (a volcanically-created hill) alongside the 1135 highway, about halfway between Jeju-si and Seogwipo.

Torches at the ready | Photo: Mike Laidman

The hillside facing the highway and festival grounds was prepped for the event with a message laid out in haybales covered with a green tarp, and large sheafs of dry grass dotting the hillside. The lower portion of the hill is the site of half a dozen ancestral grave plots. To protect them from the fire, the burial mounds were covered with tarps, held down by rocks.

The no smoking sign is on

A ball of straw and sticks 10 feet in diameter was festooned with hundreds of white strips of paper holding prayers which would be sent heavenward with the smoke and flames.

After checking out the many festival activities the would-be torch bearers met up and were quickly herded to a roped off section of seating in front of the main stage. On the ground under each plastic lawn chair was a pair of white cotton gloves, and a short bamboo pole topped with a ball of what looked like rolled up athletic socks, soaked in a flammable liquid. The torches.

“Nobody light a match!” was heard, somewhat jokingly, down the line.

After a stage show complete with laser lights, fireworks, scantily clad classical musicians and drums that were alternately doused in water and flames, it was dark enough for the main event: the torching of the oreum.

High winds nearly cancel hill lighting highlight

The first day of this year’s event was canceled due to high winds, but officials deemed it doable in spite of a fairly stiff breeze, and the procession began. The torches were lit by touching one to the other, and with shouted instructions to hold the balls of flame high, a festival organizer led the group across a dark, rocky field to the roped off edge of the oreum. Fireworks rocketed skyward, and the command was given to light the field.

The torches were largely a symbolic gesture, as pyrotechnic charges laid out across the hillside did the real work. Within seconds the entire hillside was ablaze, and torch bearers were told to drop their torches and move back. As the wind carried the heat, smoke and embers toward the crowd, everyone did just that.

From a safe vantage point one could make out the message etched in flames: “no accidents and all in peace”. If the successful burn is indeed a good sign, it looks like Jeju farmers have a good year ahead.

Fire festival glory | Credit: Brian Miller

The fire begins | Credit: Mike Laidman

Festival video | Credit: Jenie Hahn

Roomine Pension – Luxury Accomodation on Jeju Island, Close to Sunrise Peak, Jeju, South Korea

Katarina Kuruc — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 01:57:43 +0000

Roomine Pension, Jeju, South Korea
Story by David Holmes & Katarina Kuruc | Lead photo: David Holmes

Jeju Life staff writers detail their time at the luxurious Roomine Pension…
For more interior and exterior photos click here.

Holmes Said: For all you men looking for a way to both dazzle and inspire the women in your life, I have a secret that is nothing short of extraordinary: ROOMINE. In a place as hotel saturated as Jeju, there are pensions, and then there are PENSIONS. Recently I had the opportunity of discovering the latter and want to spread the word about our positive experience there. On the northwest side of the island near shell beach off the coastal road is a particularly unique looking building. It stands apart from all those in the area because the architecture is not reminiscent of the typical Jeju style. Roomine is anything but traditional. With an open concept design, sleek modern look and vibrant decorative styling, the place screams “retro-cool California”.

The pension features 7 different rooms each with their own unique decorative scheme. There is also a beautiful cafe which has large bay windows overlooking the island coastline and nearby surroundings. Among other things, it serves some western dishes and good coffee, as well as excellent cocktails and great music. All of these things collectively work to develop good ambience and a romantic atmosphere.

All things considered however, the most defining attributes of this pension are the room designs and layouts, not to mention the evident painstaking decorative scheme found in each and every room. Suffice it to say if you are looking for a quiet weekend with the Misses (or Mister), then Roomine is the place to go.

Kuruc Said: Roomine truly is one of those rare gems on Jeju that leaves you wondering why you didn’t know about it sooner. Although on the pricier side, I can guarantee that none of you will be disappointed with the overall atmosphere and ambience of the place. Not only are both the interior and exterior architecture absolutely stunning, it’s location (albeit a little secluded) makes Roomine the perfect place for a variety of events. May I suggest anniversary getaways (hint, hint to all you gentlemen out there wanting to impress your special lady), birthday weekends…And, to all you ladies out there, Roomine is the perfect place for a low-key girls’ weekend!

As mentioned above, Roomine features seven fabulous apartment-style rooms. Each room includes a full bath, complete with a bathtub, small kitchenette and floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the magnificent Jeju seaside. Also, each room has a unique theme and name. These include; Iris, Lily, Jasmine, Classic, Sky, Sweety and Cozy. Here is the scoop on each of the rooms:

Iris:The most expensive and the biggest of all 7 rooms. This room features a large living room space, a large TV, kitchen and even a dining area. Great for bigger parties who need more space.

Lily: The most attractive feature of this room is the gorgeous bathtub. The stone tiled-tub is not only huge and luxurious, it also has a fantastic view. The room also includes a dining area, large sleeping space and a large kitchen area.

Jasmine , Classic and Sky: Each room offers large sitting and dining areas and medium-size kitchen facilities. Classic has a neutral theme, while Sky boasts a sky-blue colour scheme, and Jasmine features a soft lime green motif. Each room also features a large baths.

Sweety and Cozy: These two rooms are the cheapest and also the smallest and cutest of the bunch. They each have small kitchen facilities, but, what they lack in size, they make up in comfort and personality! It is important to note, however, that Sweety does not have a dining area, so, if you are thinking about cooking your sweetheart a meal, keep in mind you may have to go picnic-style for a romantic feast.

The Pension: ROOMINE
The Cost: Seasonal pricing varying anywhere from 160,000 won to 270,000 per night (note: price subject to change at time of article publication)
The Directions: Follow road 1132 towards Hado-ri. Exit the sea shore coastal road heading west and continue onwards towards Sunrise Peak. If you reach Sunrise Peak, you’ve gone to far.
The Website: http://www.roomine.com (now with English information and booking options).

Did you go to Roomine? Leave us a comment.

The beaches of Jeju island, Jeju, South Korea (제주 해수역장)

Henry Gerlits — Sat, 12 Jul 2008 03:22:00 +0000

The beaches of Jeju Island, South Korea
Story by Henry Gerlits | Lead photo: Jungmun Beach

Are you new to the island, looking forward to dodging the monsoon weather and heading to the beaches this summer? Not sure which beach to check out? Here’s some information that might help get you started.

1. Samyang Beach – Located to the immediate east of Jeju City, this beach is accessible by city bus and is famous for its black sand. The black sand is known for its dermatological properties, and “there are even trenches so that you can be buried in the sand – it’s great for your skin,” commented English instructor and Jeju resident Anj Schroeder. Anj added that Samyang is best visited in the peaceful early hours of the morning.

2. Hamdeok Beach – Koreans I’ve spoken to have referred to this beach as “exotic”. Though I’m not sure I agree, Hamdeok does offer a number of great activities at close proximity to Jeju City. There are actually two beaches at Hamdeok, the main beach and a smaller, more private side beach around the rocks to the east. Those same rocks are also a great snorkeling spot. There’s a Family Mart visible from the beach, and crossing the road will bring you to a small amusement park with the legendary “Viking” boat ride. Hamdeok tends to be a foreigner favorite on the weekends and a meeting place for rugby, frisbee, and other sports.

3. Gimnyeong Beach – Gimnyeong (pictured) is notable for its sailing. The Cheju National University adult program runs sailing classes on the weekends there, you can contact them at 751-2704-5.

Gimnyeong Beach | Credit: Marcus Kaulback

4. Sehwa, Hado, & Jongdal-ri Beaches – Located between Seongsan and Gimyeong, these beaches are surrounded by sandy plains and are close to the Haenyeo Museum. This area is ideal for those looking for a secluded, off-the-tourist-radar area with few amenities.

5. Sinyang Beach – This beach is a little south of Seongsan, and a great place to find a minbak and spend the night before climbing Seongsan at sunrise. It is also popular with windsurfers.

6. Pyoseon Beach – The only beach in Jeju’s southeast corner, Pyoseon is known for its long stretch of sandy beach – it takes quite a while to walk (or even run!) from the road to the waves, especially during low tide. The beach’s total size is 250,000 square meters. I’ve spotted flying fish playing in the shallows at Pyoseon. It’s also right around the corner from the Jeju Folk Village.

7. Jungmun Beach – “The” tourist beach of Jeju, Jungmun’s resort complex might deter a budget traveler, but this beach has more to offer than just high prices, and is another weekend foreigner favorite. Boasting the best waves on the island, Jungmun is a popular place for surfing and other water sports. You can even charter a yacht, and it comes complete with a buffet. The coastline toward the west (near the Hyatt) is a good place to avoid the crowds, and a great spot for a volleyball net. On the east side of the beach is a small haenyeo (women diver) restaurant which serves freshly caught seafood – and it’s where I tasted seng-nakchi (still wriggling octopus tentacles) for the first and last time. If you’re not in the mood for seafood, a stop at Gecko’s western-style bar and grille for a pint of draft Guinness and a hamburger is the perfect way to end the day.

8. Hwasun Beach – With a gorgeous view of the sunset behind Sanbangsan, Hwasun beach is an under-appreciated gem of the island. Though close to Jungmun, Hwasun has managed to avoid the encroachment of larger resorts, and a comfortable minbak a stone’s throw from the beach will run you between 20,000 and 25,000 won a night.

9. Hamo Beach – This tiny beach on the southwestern tip of Jeju has a good view of Marado, but “more rocks than sand”, according to a good Korean friend of mine whose hometown is Moseulpo.

10. Hyeopjae & Geumneung Beaches – With a stunning view of Biyang Island right off the coast, and right around the corner from Hallim Park, these beaches are a beautiful place to spend a Saturday or Sunday, though the area is a bit far from both Jeju City and Seogwipo. Those who’d rather spend the night might find it a great place to tent camp on the beach.

Hyeopjae Beach | Credit: Mango Salata

11. Gwakji Beach – Located between Iho and Hyeopjae beaches, Gwakji is a great place to watch the sunset and has unique salt-water bathhouses (for men and women) right on the beach.

12. Iho Beach – A short ride from Sin Jeju, this beach was hit hard by Nari last year, and has a reputation among Koreans as being “dirty”. Nevertheless, it’s a nice short refreshing break from the city, and close to the romantic spaghetti restaurants of Jeju’s “Coastal Road”.

13. Bonus – Oedolgae Rock - Though not a proper beach, this popular sightseeing location is also home to a small swimming hole, good snorkeling, and rock-jumping. The view from the cliffs along the path to the west of the Rock are also a must-see. It is located along the coast of Seogwipo City near the Cheonjiyeon Waterfall.

Gecko’s bar and restaurant, Jeju, South Korea

Brian Miller — Sun, 25 May 2008 01:48:48 +0000

When Gecko’s opened late last year, it was a revelation. It was like being lost in the desert and God pouring manna down from heaven. It was one of the first (another being LaVie) restaurant on the island to offer a menu of genuine Western food in a great, home-style atmosphere. For years, other establishments on Jeju had offered what they claimed was Western or Italian food, but never seemed to get it right. When friends told me about a new place on the island with actual American and European food and drinks, I was skeptical.

What’s on the menu?

But this is the real deal. There’s no corn in the spaghetti, no pizza topped with sweet potatoes, but rather an entire menu filled with the type of food you would expect from a quality bar and grill back home. There’s a cheeseburger made from real beef (yes beef, that stuff in Korea that’s worth more than most black market organs), Philly cheese steak, fish ‘n’ chips, steak and Guinness pie, meatball subs, a terrific selection of steaks, pastas and pizzas and, my personal favorite, the buffalo chicken sandwich. To wash it down, Gecko’s offers Guinness, Red Rock, Heineken and Erdinger on tap, along with a number of different imported and domestic beers, shots and mixed drinks.

The sandwiches run at about 10,000 won apiece while steaks are around 22,000. When you’re done with dinner, there are darts and pool to pass the time. Completing the mood is Gecko’s musical selection, playing nothing but your favorite tunes from back home. They’ve even compiled a music list of frequent ex-pat requests, and will find any other songs you may be yearning to hear.

Gecko’s problematic location

But those aren’t the only reasons Gecko’s could be considered a Mecca for Western food on Jeju. Like most meaningful religious experiences (whether they come in the form of a cheeseburger and Guinness or otherwise) there first must come a long and demanding demonstration of one’s faith, like a penance or pilgrimage. Gecko’s is no different. Having been built on the western outskirts of Jungmun, it lies far from Jeju’s major population centres.

- It’s approximately a 50-minute journey from Jeju-si.
- 25 minutes from Seogwipo by car.
- A taxi from Seogwipo currently costs 11,000 won.
- The nearest bus stop is just off the Jungmun Tourist Complex (serviced by the 120 bus).
- A 10-15 minute walk westwards to follow.

The location seems to have been chosen to take advantage of convention and tourist business, but it makes all but weekend visits difficult for local ex-pats.

Nevertheless, Gecko’s dreadful winter time location may become a boon in the summer. Its sprawling deck and barbeque pit will no doubt be an inviting way to end a day at the beaches in Jungmun or for a post game drink after a Jeju United match.

So if a taste of home is what you crave, be sure to make the trip out to Gecko’s.

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