Long known as a place for internal exile and persecution, the turn of the 19th century saw the flames of rebellion ignite once again on Jeju with Lee Jae Soo’s (이재수) uprising against an increasing number of Catholic missionaries and native converts spreading out across the island. The result: a massacre of some three hundred Catholics and the creation of Jeju’s first Catholic cemetery, which remains with us to this modern day.

The seeds of the massacre, however, were first sown in 1886 with an agreement between Korea and France which legally opened the country to their Catholic missionaries who had previously been unable to practice freely without persecution. Two churches were established on Jeju but local government officials continued an unwelcoming stance which was reciprocated with an increasing lack of trust from the Catholic community.

Jeju Starlight World, Park and Planetarium is a brand new attraction on the slopes of Hallasan, overlooking Jeju City. Three floors of space related matter (including a 4D theatre, a dome-shaped theatre and an array of high powered telescopes) make for a potentially thrilling experience. Unfortunately, some sheen is taken off a visit by poor planning and organization.

Korea House is a replica of a Chosun Dynasty royal residence and now serves as one of the most atmospheric and charming Korean restaurants on the island. It’s located between the Shilla and Hyatt Hotels in Jungmun and is easily accessed by the Airport Limousine (you can get off at either Shilla or Hyatt, but the Airport Limo will often stop at the restaurant itself. Just keep an eye out for a large, wooden gate and colorful signboards advertising the “Rose of Sharon”).

I don’t think many foreigners would necessarily equate a traditional Korean meal with comfort food. However, the perfect combination does exist: a delicious Korean soup that warms your belly on those frigid -10 days and it’s only 5,000 won.

Sujaebi is made from green tea noodles and a creamy broth of peeled perilla seed powder. Even the name sounds soothing. Soojeeeaaaabeee. Mmmm.